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Evolution of Shoe-Makaing Industry

 

The Evolution of Shoe-Making Industry in Afghanistan

 

Preamble:

Early stage of Shoe making Industry:For human being, shoe means a kind of protective means for their feet and shins. It is now almost proved that without shoes, no one would be able to walk properly or with no trouble. Therefore, as soon as human came to existence and found himself bare, he began trying to cover his mid part of his body which necessarily had to be covered. He also was forced to use something to protect his feet. The thought of covering feet or something as protection for them has begun from long long ago. In the first stage of shoe making evolution, there has not been good materials or things with which shoes were made. Most common materials that might have been used to make shoes were obtained from plants and animals. For example, fine stems of specific plants and the bark of some tropical trees were easy to get, so primitive human started using them skillfully. The thick bark of the tropical trees was cut as sole of the shoes and fine stems of them were used as straps over the sole. In fact, those simple and primitive sandals were out of fashion and harsh to walk with, but at that era, they were useful. Throughout the years, shoe-making industry has developed gradually. Little by little, the human realized that other materials such as skin of the animals and rope made of either plants which was made of wool, could be also used to make shoes. When the second phase of shoe making industry developed and shoes were made of new materials, it was realized that the quality and durability of them started to increase. These newly made footware have been twice as much stronger, easier to walk with and more comfortable. The shape and color used to make shoes were also different. People could go to the market and choose their favorite shoes in color, shape and size. The second phase of shoe making industry development continued till 1700 AD when petroleum was discovered. Discovery of petroleum and after extraction of which from the oil fields has ended the profitable business period of those merchants that used to make great profit through buying and selling of shoes from on part of the world to another. Because, shoes were almost used by every one on earth and the demand for them was going up increasingly. People mostly used to walk everywhere and sometimes long distances between cities or even countries. Due to increasing demand for shoes, the shoe price was also started to get higher and higher as well. Fortunately, in the early 1800AD, the petroleum industry had good tidings for human society. Since then, many kinds of products were produced out of petroleum. For example, plastic, PVC, suede, polyethylene, have been among the products obtained out of petroleum. Suede was one of the most useful petroleum materials with which rumps and wamps or upper parts of shoes have been made. PVC is another type of petroleum product that is much in demand. Nowadays, shoe soles are very important factors and mostly are made of PVC. There are many kinds of materials that shoe soles are made of, but P.V.C is much durable and comfortable. Therefore, most people prefer to buy shoes whose soles are made of P.V.C. Inception of Modern Methods in Shoe making industry:In the world today, shoe-making industry is one of the most important and profitable business that has been fully developed. Nowadays, durable shoes with high quality and fashionable patterns and interesting color are produced suitable for every season of the year and sent to the world market. The price for theses shoes is quite reasonable if directly bought from the production source. Of course the price would increase when they are exchanged hand to hand by dealers in the hope of profit. In some countries, overproduced shoes are the main products that are exported to other parts of the world. Now almost every country has its own traditional way of making shoes and designs out of which shoes are made, the color, cold and heat resistance, size, quality, durability, elasticity are also different as well, However, those shoes would be preferred by the world market that contain all the mentioned features in them.With this brief description about the evolution of shoe making industry, I would like to draw your attention at the shoe-making industry in our Country mostly in Herat City.Leading countries in shoe-making industries nowadays are cashing in on the increasing demand for shoes in all over the world. Some countries that can be reckoned as leading producer of shoes and exporter of shoes are as follows: Great Britain, Spain, Italy, Germany, United States, Portugal, Japan and South Korea. Domestically made Shoes in Afghanistan:Generally in Afghanistan, there are many traditional ways of making shoes. For example, in its Capital Kabul, beside the traditional shoe making, there are a lot of modern factories in which many kind of quality shoes are produced. Most of raw materials with which shoes are made are imported from other countries except a few items like leather which is processed in the Tashkhorghan City in the north of Afghanistan. These shoes are made in a delicate way with good quality upper leather.   Unfortunately, there are not many factories where raw skins could be processed, so no use is made from the skins of the animals like cow, sheep, camel and goat after getting slaughtered, but to be exported overseas for the most part. In other countries, the skins well get tanned in the tannery factories with modern methods and means and after all they turn into nice looking, quality leather and ready to be exported back to other countries. Traditional Way of Making Shoes in the Northern region:In north part of Afghanistan, there is a special way of making shoes. It is said that over thousands of years this method of making shoes has been practiced. With this method, shoes are made very simple with little material but warm and resistant enough against the harsh, cold and moist of northern areas. After removing skin off a cow or sheep, the skin would be salted and put in a place with total darkness and airtight. After two days elapse, the skin is tanned with some kind of mountain fruit, which is crashed into powder and mixed with salt, and a kind of raisin. Tanning of skins in the north part of Afghanistan is a totally manual procedure. After getting tanned, skins are very difficult to tear or even harsh to touch. Therefore, the last phase of the process comes close where surface of the tanned skins get leveled with a special blade and the extra parts get cut. After the last process, the skin surface gets very smooth and it is the time for the shoemaker to begin its job. Shoemaker cuts shoe designs out of the processed skin simply and stitches places where needed. Actually, all parts of shoes are made of skin even the sole, but they are cut from the thickest part of the skin. When a pair of shoes is made, only the last part of the work is left which is treating it with some fat which makes the shoes turn brownish. The shoes are ready for the market. Shoe Making in Herat Province:In Herat Province like other parts of Afghanistan, there are many traditional ways of shoe making methods. Besides, due to availability of power, there are some modern means the help produce shoes. Chappat Doozi:One traditional way in Herat City is to make rubber shoes made out of auto tires. This way of making shoes is called (Chappat Doozi).The only materials that are used to make rubber shoes are auto tires and pinch nails. Shoes made of auto tires are not comfortable to wear and light to walk with, but very resistant and durable perfect for farming. Stagnant Shoe Market in Herat:For the time being in Herat City, many professional shoemakers are busy working in many various workshops where many kinds of shoes for men, women and children are produced. Unfortunately, in Afghanistan, a great deal of used shoes is imported from foreign countries. Therefore, the situation of shoe making industry is not promising and had a major negative impactin the shoe market. People mostly prefer to buy used shoes instead of shoes made domestically. Although sometimes, the quality of homemade shoes is better, people still prefer to buy the used imported shoes. They present several reasons for doing so. The first reason they say is that homemade shoes get torn easily and the cost is more expensive. In addition, they say that homemade shoes are not made with good materials or at least some parts of which are of poor quality that after a couple of weeks, the shoes would be out of shape and use. In the other hand, they prefer the used shoes very much even though they are used and old. They reason that given the fact they are old and used but still wears long and the all parts are of high quality having good shape and color and with a little polish, they seem like new ones. Resorting to the last option:Considering all these, there are still skilled shoe makers that think they should not give up making shoes even if the market is not giving them much profits. Now, there is a trend where shoemakers buy the used imported women leather boots whose leather is of quality and fine and then cut the shoe design out of leather. Almost all part of domestic shoes in Herat except the sole are made of leather obtained from the used leather boots. The vamp, straps connecting the fore and rear parts and upper parts are all made of quality leather. After the vamp is made,then it is shaped over the shoetree. Finally the sole, which is imported from neighboring countries, are attached and the shoes are ready to offer to the market.    (Written by Gh. Reza Shafaiy)

 

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Brief Note on Herat.

Herat, northwestern Afghanistan, capital of Herat Province, on the Harirud river. Herat is perhaps the most beautiful of Afghanistan's ancient cities. It has been a settlement for over 2,500 years and has been fought over by successive rulers from Alexander the Great in 330 B.C. to Ahmad Shah Durrani in 1749. In the 7th century AD the city was captured by Muslims. The Mongol conqueror Tamerlane made it his capital in 1381, and it subsequently became a center of Persian art and learning. The Afghans captured Herat in 1749. Principal architectural features of the city are the old city walls and gates, Islamic tombs, and the Friday Mosque. The city is a trading center for the grain, fruit, vegetables, and sheep of the surrounding area. Population (1988 estimate) 177,300. The city is the main city on the Herat-Qandahar or (Kandahar) road. The road has one of the busiest roads in Afghanistan with most of the exports from Afghanistan and southwest Pakistan going through this route to Turkmenistan through border city of Torghundi. Herat is the largest city in western Afghanistan and is the main trade city for exports to Iran and now Turkmenistan and Middle East.

To see the landmark in Herat, you can click on photo page.

Herat, Valley of Gardens

By Gh. Reza Shafaiy

 

Herat is a province in the western corner of Afghanistan on the crossroads of the ancient silk route. With its temperate climate, it is one of the most ancient cities of Central Asia, with a very interesting history. The backbone of the culture in this city is poetry, art, philosophy, architecture and love of humanity. In such a city, normally one should expect many gardens created by people throughout its history. Unfortunately, many ancient gardens like Gauharshad Garden is just in the pages of history. But presently there are many beautiful gardens in the vicinity of the city, that provide a good refuge for war-torn people of Herat to spend their weekends. Furthermore, each garden has its own season. Pole Malan:  A very ancient bridge (probably badly damaged during the recent war) at the bank of Harirod. During the winter, when the river is calm, people come here for wrestling festivals and other winter entertainments. This festival (Mayla) lasts for a month.  Emam Shishnoor: A garden in the vicinity of a Sufi grave (Imam Shish Noor). After the Pole Malan Festival, this festival starts at the end of winter at the Northern Bank of Herat River and ends with the beginning of Spring when the Lilies (Arghawan) start blooming in Takhte Safar.  Takht-e Safar: One of the most beautiful gardens of Herat, this garden was built on the slopes of Firooz Koh, a branch of the majestic Parapamisos mountains, ten kilometers from Herat city. The entire garden is covered with Lilies and bushes which bloom in the spring. A small water channel is directed to pools on top of the slope which in turn flow downward on steps thus creating the most beautiful scenery. Previously, a very beautiful restaurant was built in the garden which was severely damaged during the recent war.This Garden has its own Festival lasting throughout the spring season.  Bage Pole Pashtoon: This is the most beautiful garden of Herat at the bank of the Herat river built in the European style. I have my best childhood memories from this garden and its beautiful roses. This garden has its festival in the summer and at the end of spring when the Herat river is at its full power. We used to enjoy standing on the Pashtoon Bridge and watching the strong flow of the water in the river. This park is located 8 km from the city of Herat at the right bank of the Herat River.  Park-e Kargar: During Daud Khan's time, this garden was completed at the southern bank of the Herat river and called Parke Kargar. The entire area is covered with dense jungles and beautiful roses available in Herat, and create the best refuge from the hassles of life in the city. A very beautiful restaurant is at the center of the garden. People of Herat love this garden and do pay attention to preserve its beauty.  Gazergah-e Sharif: A beautiful garden surrounds the mausoleum of the Great Sufi, poet and writer of Herat: Khawaja Abdullah-e Ansar. This garden is close to Takhte Safar and people visit it regularly all year round.  Park-e Tarqi: This park was built durig Daud Khan's time in the city and is one of the most beautiful gardens of the city. The whole park is designed of roses and other flowers. This is an every day place of entertainment for the people of Herat. A few other parks are also in the city, for example Parke Share Naw, Parke Ekhteyaroddin and Gawharshad.  National Parks:Chesht-e Sharif and Chashma-e Obe: For the people who want adventure and travelling, there are designated areas in the outskirts of Herat to visit. The most famous of all is Cheshte Sharif in Obe covered by dense greenery and beautiful, mountainous scenaries at the bank of the Herat River, 50 km from the city of Herat. In the vicinity, there is a thermal spring facility which was the major attraction for tourists in Afghanistan. Anyone going to Herat should not miss this spot.  Chashma-e Safid Koh: This is the hikers' place to test their hiking abilities. It is a thermal spring in the most beautiful and virgin valleys of Parapamisos 60 km from the city of Herat. There are no roads, except small paths starting from dasht-e Siawoshan. I have inspiring memories from a hiking experience which led me to choose geology as my career. It is purely natural, and no human has touched it yet.  Morghe Paran:

For fossil hunters, this is the ideal national park in Ghorian devision of Herat province 70-80 km from the city of Herat. You will experience the virgin valleys of Parapamisos along the Herat river. Beautiful natural scenaries accompany you on your way to the spot.

 

Herat, Valley of Grapes

By: Gh. Reza Shafaiy

There are many stories about the grapes of Herat. Some say it was 2000BC that the benefits of grapes in the Herat valley was noticed. Whether these stories are true or false, one thing is certain: the best gift of nature to the beautiful Herat valley is undoubtedly the grapes. Grapes from any other place on Earth cannot compete with the aroma, beauty, taste, and natural varieties of the grapes in the Herat valley. It requires great effort to find out how the many species of grapes developed here and what the natural cause of and contribution to the selection was. Heratis talk about 72-76 varieties of grapes in the valley, but there are 35 specific types. The way the grapes are cultivated in Herat is unique by itself, and this method is not used anywhere else in the world. Instead of trimming the plant to a small size in a plain land which is common anywhere in Afghanistan as well as other countries, in Herat the plant is allowed to grow as long as five to ten meters on a slope. The reason is due to the wind and other climatic and environmental factors unique to the Herat valley. Commercially, they may not be so lucrative; since they are so delicate, the grapes get spoiled in less than 48 hours. However, the taste and aroma are different from the best varieties of grapes from anywhere else in Afghanistan. Here is a list of some common varieties of grapes available in the Herat Valley:

• Rawcha are found in two color varieties: pinkish red and yellow; they have small rounded grains. They ripens at the end of spring.
• Khalili Yellow have small elongated fat grains, and ripen after Rawcha.
• Laal come in six varieties; this variety is peculiar to Herat and cannot stand the climate of other provinces. It has been endeavored in the Kabul and Kandahar Valleys, but the plant died after a few years. This variety while ripe becomes so sweet that one cannot eat two hundred grams of it, and it can give the best wine.
• Mir Ahmadi is yellow, rounded, very fertile and massive.
• Agha Ali Pinkish is red with rounded grains.
• Askari are yellow, rounded, very beautiful but rare.
• Kishmishi has yellow, small, elongated grains specifically for drying into raisins.
• Poshangi are yellow and similar to Kishmishi but much more delicate in taste and aroma.
• Looghi Wine are red in color, with big rounded grains and resistant to climatic fluctuations and cold; they are specifically for making Herati vinegar and in the past and present the best wine. In the past, the wine was called the Best Wine of Khorosan.
• Heta are yellow with a special aroma, very elongated and with fat crispy grains.
• Fakhri ghalamak are best in the autumn, very beautiful and have the aroma of cool white cognac, yellow in color with semi elongated grains.
• Fakhri posht-e gul are very beautiful in appearance, colored yellow with shades of lilac pink, with semi elongated grains, very tasteful and resistant to cold weather.
• Monagha Reddish have pink elongated grains.
• Hosaini are yellow elongated grains with a pale lilac shade when ripe, and they are available all over Afghanistan but much more delicate with regard in taste and aroma than varieties from anywhere else.
• Maska-e are yellow rounded grains with a waxy lustre.

                       Tokhm-e Kabk are rounded yellow grains and very beautiful.

 

 

Affecfionate Message

Read and enjoy the following text.

Mawlana Jalaluddin Mohammad Balkhi (Rumi) Biography.

Rumi is now one of the most widely read poets in America. I began translating Rumi in 1988, and performing his poetry in 1990. In all of these years I never thought that he would become so popular in the West, in such a short time. Everything about Rumi is absolute magic, from the story of his life, to his superhuman ability of remaining in constant touch with the flow of intense creative energy for more than two decades. Rumi was born on the Eastern shores of the Persian Empire in 1207 (in the city of Balkh in what is now Afghanistan), and finally settled in the town of Qoniya, in what is now Turkey. His life story reads like a fairy tale. A charming noble man, a genius theologian, a brilliant sober scholar, meets a wandering and wild "holy man" by the name of Shams, and almost overnight is transformed. It seems that the universe brought these two opposing characters together to remind us for eternity that it is never what you expect when it comes to personal transformation. It is impossible to know where your next inspiration may come from, or who will become the conduit for your transformation. For Rumi the life of mystics is a "gathering of lovers, where there is no high or low, smart or ignorant, no proper schooling required." Rumi and his spiritual friend Shams left an undying legacy of the way-of-the-heart triumphing over cold logic. Excerpt from Shahram Shiva's book Hush Don't Say Anything to God: Passionate Poems of Rumi

 

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